September, oh how I love September in Seville. Everyone is back from their summer sojourn, the colour of creosote and intent on still squeezing every last drop out of the heat that remains. The shops still pretend it´s summer, only opening in the morning (not such a fan of this as it happens). The nights are warm, but not sweat inducing like August, but just enough to wander coat free from bar to terraza until the early hours of the morning.
One place where locals are milking September for all it´s worth is the collection of tapas stalls at the back of the fish market in Calle Feria. Things all kick off once the fishmongers have packed up their wares and the historic market is transformed into a modern eaterie offering sushi, rice dishes (including paella), Mexican food, oysters, salmorejos and artisan croquettes.
Most folk tend not to loiter too long inside the market and instead position themselves outside eating, drinking and chatting animatedly. There are some high tables ro park one´s behind, which if you manage to nab one, are set against the stunning backdrop of the Algaba Palace.
It´s been a while since I´ve been somewhere there´s a palpable buzz, probably not since the heady days of the Corralones on Calle Castellar. But on Thursday – Sunday evenings the market really takes on a life of its own with live music and all the people you normally see in the Alameda, crammed into the tiny adjoining Plaza Calderón de la Barca. It probably helps that prices are reasonable – for €3.50 you get a tapa and a drink or just a tapa on its own costs €3.
But right now in Seville for unbeatable atmosphere, taste, value and fun, there´s no better place to be.