Let me just start this post by pointing out that I am by no means a flamenco expert. I quite like to catch a bit from time to time and I do feel privileged to live in a city where pretty much every night of the week there’s a flamenco show going on somewhere.
So after fielding the question a million times: I’m here for two days – where can I see some decent flamenco? Here’s my seven day guide to where you can see flamenco without paying through the nose for a ‘just for tourist’ tablao.
Taberna Gonzalo Molina hosts twice weekly flamenco jam sessions (Mondays and Wednesdays) – there’s no dancing, but expect spontaneous bursting into song and an enraptured, devoted audience crammed into this tiny bar near the Alameda (with a few on the pavement too). From about 9.30pm (also on Wednesdays).
Habanilla – Flamenco Jam hosted by La Chocolata starting at 8.30pm.
Flamenquería in Triana dedicates its Tuesday nights to up and coming talent with shows starting at 9pm and costing 9 Euros. There are also shows on other nights of the week, so consult their website.
La Peña Cultural Torres Macarena holds its weekly flamenco show from one of the quaintest venues, starting at 9pm.
At Casa la Teatro in Triana Market from Wednesday to Fridays there’s lunchtime flamenco, perfect for anyone with little ones who aren’t used to late nights. The show starts at 1pm and costs 15 Euros.
A show that I haven’t checked out yet on Thursdays is ‘Jueves Flamenco en La Sra Pop’. With a lounge bar environment, entry costs 5 Euros with a drink.
And also somewhere I haven’t tried, but is on my list is Flamenco Con Otro Sol at La Casa Ensamblá: Despacio Cultural, Calle Clavellinas 14, Sevilla. Starting at 9.30pm, it’s every two weeks. So check the Facebook Page for up-to-date information.
In the absence of the Peña Flamenca Niño de la Alfalfa which is still looking for a new home, head to La Madriguera on Calle Arrayan for live flamenco from 9.30pm. It’s just an ordinary little bar with traditional tapas and a friendly atmosphere. There’s no entry fee, which means if you’re lucky you’ll get to see some top flamenco dancers and musicians who you’d normally pay an arm and a leg to see.
La Madriguera, Calle Arrayán 23
Consult their Facebook Page for details
Over at Taberna Galeria Anima there is another flamenco jam style evening called ‘Juerguis Flamenquis’ where flamenco aficionados gather, listen, sing, play the guitar, tocar palmas and generally live and breathe everything flamenco. Don’t expect dancing though.
I am sorry to say that right now there is no non-tablao option that I’m aware of if you want to see some flamenco on a Saturday night. For a city that along with Jerez, is the home of flamenco, it’s a sad state of affairs.
But if you want to immerse yourself in the world of hardcore Seville culture, you could try Casa Anselma in Triana. It’s still on my ‘must try’ list, so I can’t vouch for it personally. But by all the reviews online, it will certainly be a night to remember.
Sunday (or any night of the week)
Will it open or will it close? That was the question on the lips of everyone over the summer about the impending eviction and potential closure of La Carbonerìa. Well they were ousted from part of the original building, but they’re still continuing in an informal ‘flamenco amongst friends’ format. You just have to enter in a different door on Calle Céspedes, 21 Acc. Things kick off from around 9.30pm.
Of the touristy tablaos, a guarantee of quality flamenco in a beautiful location is the Casa de la Memoria. They have shows every night of the week and in peak season twice nightly. However for the spit and sawdust purist it’s a much slicker affair and with the bulk of the audience being tourists.
NB: Please check Facebook pages beforehand, particularly if visiting Seville during Christmas, Easter or the summer months.