One of the defining characteristics of Sevillanos is their love of doing everything en la calle (outside).
- They love to generally be en la calle. This doesn’t mean in the homeless sense, they just don’t like being inside their houses. The caveat being if it is raining, then all social engagements are off.
- Teenagers and twenty somethings love to make out in the calle. As most people live with their parents until they either get married or land that elusive well paid job, romantic relations involve clandestine liaisons or just dry humping in public. Many seem to choose the later
- Shouting/ arguing en la calle. Dirty laundry is very much to aired in public. None of this keeping disagreements behind closed doors mallarky
- Peeing en la calle. This starts pretty young in Seville with potty training and continues for the rest of adult life. Basically the street is considered one big toilet both for humans and their canine companions.
- Eating en la calle. ‘Comer en la calle’ in this instance doesn’t mean eat in the street, but refers to eating anywhere away from home where you pay for the privilege.
This subtle difference in the meaning could explain why it’s taken a year or so longer for the ‘street food’ fashion to make it to Seville. Here I mean street food in its hipster sense i.e. dishes which in their original country of origin would have been cooked and served up at the side of the road, but in 21st century Europe are cooked in a restaurant kitchen.
But as more international influences have seeped into the Seville restaurant scene , so has the concept of street food. So here are my top 5 choices.
Tucked away deep inside Feria market is the eclectic street food offering of Condendé. Bringing together cuisine from across the globe, the regular menu has Venuzuelan Arepas, Japanese Gyozas, Brazilian Pao de Queijo, Italian Brushetta and Indian Samosas – all cooked fresh in front of your eyes in their tiny kitchen. There are also regular guest chefs that bring their own particular style of cuisine, such as last week’s fried pizza from Napoli (tastier than it sounds).
I love the friendly welcome always on offer, the cool music and buzzing atmosphere. Plus you can mix and match with the other nearby stall holders who offer fresh fruit juices and Chinese noodles.
Authentic Mexican tacos are on offer at this Alameda Taqueria, as well as ceviche style dishes that make a nice fresh accompaniment. Oh and don’t forget the Tequilas, of which there are many.
I’d walked past this Vietnamese take away so many times on Calle Calatrava before finally getting the opportunity to walk in. It’s brightly lit, so not necessarily the most inviting ambience, but the couple who run it are adorable. She’s Vietnamese, he’s Sevillano and they’re doing their best to bring a bit of spice to the Sevillano masses. The food is mostly pork based which wasn’t great for me, but if you like dumplings and the like, it’s great. I had a spicy noodle soup which was pretty tasty.
For the last couple of years Feria market has become a hub for international street food thanks to the Lonja de Feria venture. Having transformed part of the fish section into mini tapas bars, it offers Japanese, Mexican, Peruvian and more traditional Spanish dishes.
While actually more a sit down restaurant (although you’ll probably have to share a table), No-Lugar gives more than a nod to street style food, with dishes such as Philippine rice, Mutabal from the middle east and various dishes from Morocco.